At Hermès, woven leather and quiet confidence set the tone for Paris menswear

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ParisHerm’s took a different route, even if a large portion of Paris Fashion Week followed spectacle.

The Summer 2026 men’s collection, which was unveiled on Saturday by artistic director Vronique Nichanian, spoke in a language of subdued elegance, profound craftsmanship, and quiet strength.

Under towering mirrors, models strutted in sleeveless tops, high-waisted woven leather pants, and smartly cut jackets that combined house tradition with a contemporary, carefree sensuality.

Coffee, slate, taupe, and beige were all cool, precise colors that taught subtlety. Here there was accuracy, not yelling.

The collection’s austerity was what gave it its strength. When the rest of fashion is busy creating noise, Herms goes tight, delivering fitted silhouettes and a sense of order where others go wide. The audience was reminded that genuine luxury is about touch rather than flash by the use of fine leather, featherlight silks, and bandanas with a hint of fringe.

Things were kept lively rather than rigid by Nichanian’s whimsical additions, such as zigzag patterns, the wink of an unbuttoned shirt, and a flash of silver hardware. By simply refusing to follow trends, it was a masterclass in how to make old codes feel fresh, even subversive.

In a time of economic trepidation and designer changes, Herms stood out as self-assured, laser-focused, and unyielding. Nichanian made a strong statement at Herm’s when she bowed to applause: luxury is about the wearer’s enjoyment, not the audience’s enthusiasm.

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